The Kumano Kodo is a legendary path in Japan. Already 1000 years ago the emperor, nobles and later samurai set out to do this pilgrimage. The pilgrimage is one of the world’s most renowned pilgrimages. Nowadays many people do it every year. There are religious people or just business people from across the globe to find some time to calm down in the nature. The goal of the path are the Kumano Sanzan, three grand Shinto shrines.
Kumano Hongu Taisha
The head shrine, originally located at Ōyunohara and now situated slightly upriver. It is the spiritual center of the Kumano region.
Kumano Nachi Taisha
Famous for its striking setting beside Nachi Waterfall, blending Shinto and Buddhist traditions.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Located in Shingū near the mouth of the Kumano River, it is closely associated with sacred natural objects and ancient worship.
There is no fixed route and you can decide how much time you want to spend on the Kumano Kodo. This of course makes planning more complicated. Therefore this post will provide you a great Kumano Kodo itinerary for 4-5 days with accommodations.
Kumano Kodo Itinerary – Day 1: Tanabe
One of the most common starting points for the Kumano Kodo is the city of Tanabe. It is on the west coast of the Wakayama prefecture, just a 2 and a half hour train ride from Osaka. I recommend to stay the night there and on the next day start the walk through Kumano Kodo. I say walk, because it is really not an exhausting hike. Almost anybody can do it and in the pace you want. When I planned my trip to the Kumano Kodo, I got the recommendation to stay at the Kamenoi Hotel. I would pass on that same recommendation, because of its beautiful ocean view. The only downside is that you have to pass through the whole city
Kumano Kodo Itinerary – Day 2: Chikatsuyu
Starting from your hotel, you can take the bus to the Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center. There you can get information, deposit your luggage and buy bento boxes. You also can get the Kumano Kodo stamp booklets. The stamps are a nice memory, but with this 4-5 days itinerary you will neither complete the booklet nor get the pilgrimage status:-) There is even a dual pilgrimage initiative in cooperation with another world heritage trail, the Way of St. James (Camino de Santiago) in Europe.
The first destination on the trail is Chikatsuyu. It is a 3.5h to 4h wallk from the Pilgrimage Center. There you can stay in Chikatsuyu Sen Retreat. Another famous accommodation in Chikatsuyu is the Minshuku Chikatsuyu. If you want to go on a slow pace, then there are plenty accommodations along the way. There is also always the possibility to skip a little bit ahead by bus. You can get along the main routes of the Kumano Kodo by bus. Of course it is more fun to walk in the forest where no buses drive.
Kumano Kodo Itinerary – Day 3 & 4: Yunomine
The next destination is Yunomine. It is a famous onsen village on the Kumano Kodo. With many natural onsen (hot springs) and onsen hotels. Definitely a must on a Kumano Kodo itinerary. Here you also find the first of the three grand shrines of the Kumano Kodo nearby – the Hongu Taisha. From Minshuku Chikatsuyu it is more than 20km, so if you like you can skip ahead a little bit by using the bus. In Yunomine I recommend to stay at least two days to have a full day to explore the shrine area and relax from the hiking. A great accommodation with a great onsen is the traditional Ryokan Adumaya. A cheaper option is this traditional ryokan hostel — the J-Hoppers Yunomine which is as beautiful as the more private Adumaya.
Kumano Kodo Itinerary – Day 5: Return
Basically the fifth day is only to return. Have a nice breakfast in Yunomine and take the bus to Tanabe. From Tanabe you can return to Osaka by train. The whole trip by bus and train takes around 5 hours.
Spend more time on the Kumano Kodo
You could of course also take it slow if you have one more day. Then you could hike some more and spontaneously stay at an accommodation. That is the charme of the Kumano Kodo. If you have even more days left, then you should definitely visit the other two grand Shinto shrines. The first one in Shingu you reach in two days of 4 hour hiking. From there it is another 4 hour hike to the great nature spectacle – the Nachi Taisha with the Nachi waterfall.
If you are with kids, then remember that you can skip ahead by bus. From Nachi you can take the bus to Katsuura (25 minutes) and from there the train back to Tanabe. That is a nice train ride around the southern coastline of the Kii-Peninsula in the Wakayama prefecture.
Arigato gozaimasu for reading。
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